There are a few reasons why a hen will sneeze.

I remember the 1^st time I heard my Bluebell sneeze. I think in jumped higher than the dog. Both of us shocked at the disproportionately loud sound that came out of her!

Chickens sneeze from time to time, it’s not uncommon. But there are few areas you should pay attention too because it could be a little more serious.

Typically a chicken will sneeze to clear their nasal passages.

I’ve notice that sometimes when I’ve let my two out for a quick scratch around the flower bed that they can bare contain themselves and end up much like my kids getting stuff stuck up their nose – in this case some dirt or soil.

I’ve also noticed at times that when they are drinking they mistimed thinks and end up sneezing – clearly the water when down or up the wrong way.

All this is pretty common and normal and nothing to be alarmed at.

However…

It could also signal a temporary cold – which tends to be more common occurrence during the wet and cold months.

If your chickens is sneezing on a regular basis you should make sure to keep a close eye on her.

Be on the lookout for other “symptoms” such as bubbly or mucus-y eyes and coughing or gasping for air, because this could indicate a virus infection or disease.

There are several things you should do to help your chickens that appears to have a cold.

1.  If you can I would recommend separating the sneezing or symptomatic chicken from healthy hens in case the sneezing is caused by anything other than the “common cold.” That’s the first step I would try and do
2. Next get your hands on some apple cider vinegar and add it to the drinking water of all your hens – if you haven’t read the article on Apple Cider Vinegar and the many benefits to it you can do so here. It’s a great natural way to help keep their auto-immune system healthy and functioning.
3.   Check and make sure their bedding is free of excess dust, pollen, and moisture, as these can cause nasal irritation and or add to it.
4. If you don’t feel confident enough to wait things out to see if your hen improves or if if after a few days things are still the same then you should consider contacting a vet and ask about antibiotics and what they recommend.

A word of warning about a sneezing chicken.

In some cases, what is perceived at first as common cold could be mycoplasma gallisepticum, or a respiratory disease or virus, especially when the sneezing is accompanied by other symptoms.

So, while more often than not – it is just a common cold and your hen may be poorly for a few days ot could also be something more serious, so try not to worry but make sure you are keeping an eye of your hen and if you are concerned and or notice other symptoms then the best route is not the internet or forums but a professional vet with experience dealing with chickens.

Lice are extremely irritating for your chickens, and a severe infestation can also kill small chicks.

Lice are just big enough to be spotted with the naked eye as pale insects on the skin. When you examine your chicken’s feathers, you might spot them crawling around the base of the feathers, and you may see clusters of their eggs on the feather stems. Lice love somewhere soft and warm, so also check under the wings and around the vent area. Other symptoms include a dirty vent area, weight loss and reduced egg yield.

Lice should be treated using a specialist lice powder for chickens, and always apply it exactly as per the instructions. Apply the powder to EVERY bird in your flock, infected or not. Lice can survive for up to 5 days without a host bird to feed on, and can reproduce in just 3 weeks. What’s more their eggs are resistant to the powders, so repeat the lice powder treatment in 7-10 days to kill off the next louse generation before they can breed again.

You must also clean out all bedding and dispose of it well away from the chicken coop. Then, properly clean and disinfect the chicken coop including under the perches, before filling it with fresh bedding, and returning your birds.

Chickens naturally rid themselves of lice by taking a dust bath. If your chickens do not have access to natural soil, provide them with a box filled with dry soil or sand.

If your chickens do have a lice infestation, remember to replace the dust bath contents with fresh materials, and add a dash of lice powder just to be on the safe side.

Mites

Mites are parasites that feed on your chicken’s blood, and there are two main types. Northern fowl mite lives on your bird, while the troublesome red mite does not. Instead, red mites hide away in dark corners of the chicken coop, emerging at night to feed on your poor unsuspecting chickens. The level of irritation from a red mite infestation can cause broody hens to abandon their nests and pluck out their own feathers. Other symptoms include weight lose, lower egg yield and visible mites on the skin or around the vent.

Again, treatment is with a specialist red mite powder, applied to each chicken’s feathers right down to the roots.

And again, the only way to get rid of the mites is to give your chicken house the most thorough of cleans. Remove all bedding and thoroughly clean the inside of the house, getting into every corner and under every ledge or perch. Dust all areas with red mite powder, or disinfect every last millimeter of surface with a poultry-safe disinfectant spray. Let the chicken coop dry, and refill with fresh clean bedding before allowing your chickens to come home and roost.

Scaly Leg

Scaly leg is caused by a mite that burrows under the scales of your chicken’s legs. Symptoms include leg inflammation, swelling and lameness. If left untreated, the condition gets worse, as the scales get pushed away from the skin by the mites’ excretions.

If your chicken has scaly leg, you must isolate the affected bird(s) as scaly leg is extremely contagious. Most vets will advise regular, gentle washing of the legs to remove the surface layer, and then application of a suitable treatment to allow the leg to heal. Some chicken keepers dip the affected legs into surgical spirit twice a week to keep the legs clean and disinfected.

NEVER try to lift or remove any affected scales; this is very painful for your chicken and unnecessary, as the damaged scales are replaced during the chicken’s annual moult.

As with all mite infections, you must also clean out and disinfect your chicken coop. Check for any damp patches caused by a leaking roof or similar, and fix immediately; scale mites love damp conditions. Chickens with feathered feet are particularly prone to scaly leg, so remember to check their legs regularly.
Worms

Worms are endoparasites, which mean they live inside their host, so they are not possible to spot by eye. The usual external symptoms of worms are loss of appetite and weight, lower egg production, faded comb colour and liquid droppings.

Unfortunately these parasitic worms tend to live inside earthworms, one of your chicken’s favourite snacks. Once your chicken eats the earthworms, the parasitic worms attach themselves to the lining of your chicken’s oesophagus, crop and mouth, causing swelling that constrict the gut.

Young birds can also suffer from tetramer infestation, whose larvae lurk inside beetles and woodlice. The newly hatched female worms live in the chicken’s stomach, causing anamia and lack of condition.

All types of parasitic worms can be treated / prevented by regularly worming your flock. There is much debate about whether regular preventative worming is either necessary or desirable, so ask your vet for advice.

Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis tends to affect young chickens between 3 and 6 weeks of age, giving them bad diarrhoea and symptoms akin to sever depression. The single-cell parasite that causes the disease is spread by chicken poo, so is easily transported on any surface including clothing, shoes, buckets, etc. Proper cleanliness is vital to its prevention, so you should always rear young chicks separately from the main flock, and in a well ventilated, clean, dry coop or house.

Chicks build a natural immunity by the age of 16 weeks, so many breeders feed chicks a special chick crumb containing an anti-coccidial agent.

If you are in any doubt about your chickens’ welfare or health, always call in a vet. Remember, one sick bird can contaminate a whole flock in a matter of hours.

Eyes
Your chicken’s eyes should be bright, clear and with that slightly naughty glint that means they are full of vitality.

Nostrils
Just like humans, chickens catch colds, so nostrils should be clear of discharge. Also check for beak deformaties.

Feathers
One of the surest signs that a chicken is unwell is that they lose feather condition. Plumage should be clean, sleek and well-groomed (by the chicken). HOWEVER, chickens do moult, and during their moult they look very tatty indeed.

When checking your chicken, you need to pick it up and gently pull the feathers back to reveal the roots, where parasite can lurk. Check under the wing too.

Vent
Yes, this is the chicken’s bottom. It should be clean, free of dirt and parasites, slightly moist, but not giving any discharge. Droppings should be firm and grayish-brown, with a white cap. Don’t be squeamish about this process; you can tell a lot about a chicken’s health from its vent.

Legs
Chicken’s legs are naturally scaly, but should be smooth and blemish-free. Rough scales may indicate parasites.

Comb
Your chicken’s comb should have good, strong colour and be free of scabs. Your chicken’s comb is susceptible to frostbite, so apply a layer of Vasoline to protect them on cold night.

Chickens, like humans, can get sick with everything from a common cold to more serious diseases. How can you spot the early symptoms, and ensure your flock remains fit and healthy?

Read on to discover the most common chicken ailments, and how you can help treat or prevent them. And remember, if you are in any doubt as to why your chicken is ill, isolate it from your flock and call in the vet asap.

Starting off ….

The key to keeping your chickens healthy is to make sure they have the best of everything; the best draught-free and secure chicken coop, the best food, fresh water, and enough room to spread their wings. Most important of all, they must have YOU, to clean the coop regularly and keep an eye of their welfare.

Cleaning your chicken coop must become a regular part of your life, not something you remember to do now and again. Dirty unkept living quarters is where alot of your problems can begin, so this is why it is our first point.

Effective cleaning cannot happen while your hens are resident, so temporarily evict them into their outside pen with a tasty treat or two, while you get on with the cleaning.

Bedding must be changed regularly, particularly if it gets damp. Make sure you remove all bedding, even from the corners, and wash and scrub away any that sticks in place. Allow the coop floor to dry if necessary before putting in new bedding.

Roosting areas should be cleaned and disinfected regularly, especially under the perches themselves, where parasites and insects can lurk.

Water dispensers and feeding dishes should be scrubbed clean, rinsed thoroughly and dried before returning to use in the run or hen house.

No Draughts Please, We’re Chickens

Chickens do not like draughts, but their chicken house should be well ventilated. Well-designed chicken coops have special windows or ventilations holes that allow fresh air in, but don’t cause draughts.

The Best Food and Water (and a bit of grit)

Now, we’re not suggesting that your chickens should fed on the finest grains hand picked by peasants in some distant land, or they should only sip spring water from the Italian Alps, but good food and fresh water does make a big different. While your chickens can gain up to 25% of their protein by foraging, you should also supply then with a good quality complete chicken food, to keep them in top laying condition.

Eggs are composed of up to 65% water, so you must supply plenty of it. Chickens, however, are terrible at keeping their own water supply clean, so you should refresh it as often as possible to avoid contamination.

Chickens need grit in the gizzards to digest their food (more on gizzards later), so if your chickens do not have access to natural grit in soil or grass, you should supply some.

Like any animals, your chicken can be susceptible to a number of pests, diseases, and disorders. Even the healthiest chicken in the cleanest coop can be vulnerable, so on the next page is a quick check list of what a healthy chicken should look like.

Before you rush out to purchase new occupants for your coop, here are a few tips on buying chickens.

1. Always buy your chickens in person.

When buying chickens, you need to see what you are getting. Some companies will deliver them, but reputable breeders operate a collection-only policy, and with good reason. By buying in person, you can see the condition of your birds, how they are kept, and reject any that are obviously sickly, ill or not as described. If in any doubt, walk away – there are always other chickens.

2. Buy in the light

Buy your chickens in daylight, when you can properly see their condition. A healthy hen should be alert, active and bright-eyed during the day. Feathers should be glossy and complete, but this may not be the case if the hen is in moult, or is at the bottom of the pecking order. If so, she will grow new feathers once she is in your tender loving care.

3. Pick up your chicken

There is no substitute for picking up a chicken and feeling her condition for yourself. Look for smooth legs, good feather condition (see above) and a firm body, indicating good muscle and meat development. Gently part the feathers for a quick inspection for lice or skin conditions hidden below. Trust your instincts; if you like the bird and the bird likes you, buy it. If it (literally) feels wrong, walk away from the deal, or choose another chicken. Don’t take a sick or weak bird out of sympathy – it’ll cost you heartache and expense.

4. Don’t buy too many …. at first!

If you are new to this all then start small. A few hens 3 or 4 is ideal. Remember you can always get more in a few months, that is easy. The problem is that whilst most people have good intentions, they also have a tendency to rush in, and they forget or ignore the fact that keeping chickens requires the same amount of attention as a family cat or dog.

Unless you have chosen a particularly low egg-yielding breed, three to four chickens will easily supply your family with fresh eggs all year round. Overcrowded chickens are more prone to disease, mites and are more likely to step on eggs and damage them.

So, start with a smaller group of three and four, and build your flock once you have more experience.